The Perito Moreno has a front five kilometres wide and around seventy metres high above the water, and it advances all year round. Every so often a block breaks off and crashes into the channel with a roar you feel in your chest before you hear it. That is why people stay for hours watching.
We leave Puerto Natales before dawn and cross the Patagonian steppe towards the border. Guanacos and rheas appear by the roadside for much of the drive. After the border crossing we continue to El Calafate, with a short stop, and from there take the road into Los Glaciares National Park.
Facing the glacier there is a system of walkways, balconies and viewpoints connected by stairs, which lets you see it from different heights and distances. You walk it at your own pace. At the end of the day we head back, arriving in Puerto Natales around 10:00 p.m.
The box lunch is chosen when booking, from three options: meat, vegetarian or vegan. It includes a sandwich, an empanada, a snack, a muffin, fruit and water. The vegan option replaces those items with rice and lentil salad, wholemeal bread and sweet biscuits.
BEFORE YOU TRAVEL: check that your ID card shows no damage or alteration in the chip and QR code area. If you are a foreign visitor, check whether your nationality requires a visa to enter Argentina. At check-in you must present your passport together with the document the Chilean investigations police (PDI) gave you when you entered Chile.
The entrance fee to Los Glaciares National Park is not included and is purchased online at www.argentina.gob.ar/parquesnacionales. We recommend buying it in advance.